Posted: 2022-12-21 04:31 AM
Is it possible to name the radiators in a room please? The current 'Identify' method has some major shortcomings, namely...
1. The process can take up to a minute to flash the TRV.
2. Assumes you can see all the radiators in a room at the same time. This is the biggest bug-bear for me. I have a conservatory with 4 radiators and I can only see the LED's of one radiator from any vantage point. This makes hunting down the radiator with low batteries a far harder task than it need be.
Posted: 2022-12-21 08:29 AM . Last Modified: 2022-12-21 08:30 AM
Is it possible to name the radiators in a room please?
The API returns a Serial Number - but even if it was shown in the phone App, it isn't printed anywhere on the actual device.
One work around for your problem, is to manually operate the valve (either "+", or "-"). The central LED gives a short flash if the battery is low.
You could sit cross-legged in front of each one in turn; I believe they give a short flash on a periodic basis if the battery is low. I've never noticed one do it though☹️
The API returns the actual voltage, as well as a weird string, that the App. appears to use, such as
"BatteryVoltage": 27, "BatteryLevel": "OneThird",
Posted: 2022-12-21 08:35 AM
I don't need a label on the trv. Just as I add a trv to the system, it allows me to name it (rad1, rad2 etc.). The app can maintain the serial number link to my name object.
I usually leave the batteries to run out completely as one day I'll get the running low message and amber coloured graphic, the next day it'll be one segment of green. So sitting looking at it doesn't help. 😆
Posted: 2022-12-21 08:53 AM
I usually leave the batteries to run out completely as one day I'll get the running low message and amber coloured graphic, the next day it'll be one segment of green.
I've had three instances of leaking batteries so far. (The reported voltage at this point was 2.6V - I've now started replacing them as a precaution at 2.7V)
After the supplied batteries ran flat, I've been using Procell AA ('industrial' Duracell) and I'm doing an experiment with Procell "Intense" and Energizer Lithium at the moment.
Posted: 2022-12-21 08:58 AM
I use the Kodak alkaline ones from Poundland. 😆. 10 for a quid as the trv's chew through the batteries.
I did look at some high energy rechargeables (ones that match\exceed the trv spec), but it would have taken 9 years to make back the investment!
Posted: 2022-12-21 09:31 AM . Last Modified: 2022-12-21 04:27 PM
The Procells work out at 44p each (from http://batterystation.co.uk )
The lifetime is interesting though. Since I started logging them in a spreadsheet, I've had between 162 and 338 days usage from a set. The 162 days ended with a "critical warning" @ 2.4V and 338 days ended with leaking batteries @ 2.6V.
(and everything in between - with no discernible pattern)
Posted: 2022-12-21 09:59 AM
I use around two or three sets of batteries over the autumn\winter\spring. From Poundland they cost me 10p or less if they do the 11 batteries for the price of 10. 😆
In summer I only put batteries in if we have a cold snap.
Posted: 2022-12-21 01:06 PM
This thread doesn't fill me with much hope, I thought he batteries were supposed to last at least 12 months!
Posted: 2022-12-21 04:44 PM . Last Modified: 2022-12-21 05:09 PM
My recorded average iTRV battery life is 278 days (that's to the point where the LED illuminates and the app. shows there's a problem - though I've never had an actual notification).
Roomstat batteries fair better at an average of 317 days. (They can be still working when the reported voltage is down to 1.7V ... though the display will be off at that point).
The issue with the iTRVs, is that they have to drive a motor. The relatively high current causes the voltage to dip to a point where the rest of the electronics starts to struggle. AA cell capacities are normally tested to the point where the output voltage is 0.9V. The iTRV is giving up the ghost at something like 1.2~1.3V, so there's actually quite a lot of juice still in there that's not usable. (The Duracell Procell capacity is a claimed 3016mAh; but there's usually about 500mAh remaining when I have to replace them. At least I'm never short of batteries for my mouse 😊 )
The Procell Intense range have a similar capacity, but a claimed lower impedance - so maybe more energy can be extracted before the voltage falls too low - we'll see. The Energizer Lithiums are a much high voltage to start with, so maybe they'll prove to be the answer.
I have more than one issue with batteries (given that my Wiser kit uses FORTY of them) :-
Just to add, by way of comparison...