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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:52 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:52 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
Fuse on main board of Back-UPS XS 1500. I've blown the two fuses on the main board of my UPS. I was using an external battery that had a wiring short. The UPS will turn on but the battery will not connect because of the blown fuse.
I thought it was a simple automotive blade type fuse - marked 30 on the top. But after I removed the fuse - it was not automotive. The legs of the fuse are attached to the main board and the plastic top comes off.
Anyway - even worse. The fuse part (part that blows) is attached to the legs and is permanently on the board. I guess these type of fuses are not to be removed and replaced.
This is the fuse for the battery input wires - not the 110v cord breaker button thingy.
Fuse is marked Littel Fuse 30 32V 257. I looked it up and the web page shows an automotive blade type fuse. That is not what is there. The legs are soldered to the board. I have the plastic green tops in my hand how.
Any ideas??
attached pic is example - not my UPS
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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:52 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:52 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
That's exactly what it looks like. The blade type fuse and APC just soldered to the PCB.
Now will soldering it mess up the fuseable part of it?
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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:53 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:53 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
Thanks for your help. I've decided that APC did a very strange thing and took regular blade automotive fuses and yes - soldered the legs directly to the PCB. Strange when there are many other types of mounted fuse types they could have chosen so that they can could have been easily replaced.
Got to heat up my gun now. I've read it takes a lot of heat to melt the fuseable link part anyway. Like over 1,000F.
Message was edited by: eric512
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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:52 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:52 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
That's exactly what it looks like. The blade type fuse and APC just soldered to the PCB.
Now will soldering it mess up the fuseable part of it?
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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:53 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:53 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
Thanks for your help. I've decided that APC did a very strange thing and took regular blade automotive fuses and yes - soldered the legs directly to the PCB. Strange when there are many other types of mounted fuse types they could have chosen so that they can could have been easily replaced.
Got to heat up my gun now. I've read it takes a lot of heat to melt the fuseable link part anyway. Like over 1,000F.
Message was edited by: eric512
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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:53 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
>
Fuse is marked Littel Fuse 30 32V 257. I looked it up and the web page shows an automotive blade type fuse. That is not what is there. The legs are soldered to the board. I have the plastic green tops in my hand how.
Any ideas??
>
The picture you attached looks like the picture of the blade type fuse (as marked) on Littel's website: http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/Littelfuse_BladeFuse_ATO32V.pdf
Perhaps they take one of those and solder the legs to the PCB?
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Posted: 2021-06-29 04:53 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-22 12:23 AM
Well you only really face one option.. You have two blown fuses that are soldiered onto the PCA. The only way to find out if you can soldier them on without blowing them is to do it. I'd order a couple extra just in case you mess one up. As it stands your circuit is broken so by not soldering the new fuses in it will remain broken. I don't believe your going to find anyone hear that will say "go ahead and soldier them on, your not going to damage anything else"
Good luck!
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