SUA3000XLI Won't cold start or anything. Batteries are fine.

[Anonymous user]

Hi all, I have a SUA3000XLI that for some reason will not start at all. I have checked all the battery leads on both sets of batteries and they are fine.

I have opened up the case and with a meter have 50 volts DC with the unit unplugged from mains power.

While it sits there the fans are not running and I cannot cold start by holding the start button.

When I plugs the mains power lead, I get a click from inside and both front fans start running straight away, and some charge is applied to the batteries and it increases to 55 volts DC.

However with the mains plugged in, I still cannot start the unit. I can only get a beep by pressing the bottom button and that is all.

Can anyone help me with what could be wrong or what else I can test?

Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous user]

Anyone?

[Anonymous user]

I'm having the same exact problem.  

[Anonymous user]

No lights light up when I plug the mains lead in. Only the fans start up and I can get a beep everytime I press the off/bottom button on the front panel.

But that is all I'm getting.

[Anonymous user]

On 07/07/2016 5:00 AM, Jon said:

Unfortunately I cannot recommend opening the unit to troubleshoot or replace internal components.  At this point I would look into replacing your current unit.

Well too late for that mate :). I have a bit of electronics background knowledge and would like any tips to try and see if I can fix it. I hate throwing stuff out without trying.

Even its just a few basic things to check or common parts to replace that you think it might be.???

Please.

[BillP]

Test all the relays by applying voltage and checking they work, look for blown/swollen caps, dry solder joints.

After that start testing caps with an ESR meter.

If all that fails scrap it.

[Anonymous user]

Ok Cheers.

[MarkC_apc · Accepted solution]

Does the NMC power up?  If so, can you glean any information from the readout?  Does it "pass" power to the outlets.  These units will work without the control board hooked up under control of the NMC.  Also, I've had times when a (totally failed) battery (batteries) will result in similar results.  

[Anonymous user]

Hi Mark, I never thought to see if power passed through, and no it doesn't!!

The sensitivity light on the back does light up.

I ordered a NMC to put in it as it didn't have one when I got it. I'm kicking myself I didn't ask to see it running before I bought it home.

I'll put the card in and see what happens and if I can get any info from it.

The batteries I think seem to be ok, I've got others I will swap and also see if they make any difference. I didn't swap them before as I expected the unit to beep and carry on if the batteries were poor.

I'll let you know what I find out.

Thanks again everyone for the help. Hopefully I get it resurrected.

[Anonymous user]

Hi Mark, you are a legend!!!!

I didn't even see any point trying to put the card in and try it. I figured if the unit was dead, then nothing would work, but that theory was wrong!!!

I put the card in, and after figuring out how to set the IP address, subnet and the gateway via serial/putty, I was then able to login into the ups via PowerChute.

First error message that came up was UPS offline "output power switched off".

I was able to turn it on and...... VOILA it powered up Yay.

My geuss is that the previous owner had turned the unit off via the PowerChute software before removing it.

**** Kevin this may be the answer to your situation too. I just tried this, turning off the ups via powerchute software, renders the front power button on the front inactive!! It must be turned on again via powerchute.

Thanks again everyone for their tips. even just the slightest hint can help, even if you think it can't be possible

[Anonymous user]

On 06/07/2016 10:01 PM, Kevin said:

I'm having the same exact problem. 

Kevin check out my last post, it might help you 🙂

[MarkC_apc]

On 7/10/2016 8:58 AM, Lyle said:

I put the card in, and after figuring out how to set the IP address, subnet and the gateway via serial/putty, I was then able to login into the ups via PowerChute.

The SU and SUA (and SURT) models also can communicate thru the dp9 serial ports - without a network card - in the "smart protocol" API. This is fairly well documented on the web.  You have to use a terminal emulator (hyperterminal, etc) and set the comm ports correctly (and use the "proprietary cable" - but easy to do.  Most of what you find on the NMC can also be accessed thru this interface, along with most programmable parameters - just not very convenient.  Great to help get another robust UPS back in use!

[voidstar_apc]

I'm glad it works but that's odd -- the power button on the front panel should turn the unit on even if it's been turned off via PowerChute or the NMC. Turning the unit on when not plugged into a AC power requires holding the button down for a bit.

[Anonymous user]

Just a random thought, although I'm not very familiar with these larger units: could someone have ripped or torn off the cable linking display to UPS? Or maybe the power button broke due to a lot of use...never seen it, but anything's possible.

[Anonymous user]

I have just tried turning it on after turning off via the front panel and yep the on button isn't working. However I have puuled the front panel off and tested the actual switch and that does work. So I'm now guessing theres a dry solder joint on the board somewhere or one of the chips is playing up. Will test a bit further later.

[MarkC_apc]

You might find a "dead" unit in the SUA line (any one that is cheap) and try the entire ribbon cable and control panel to determine if that's your problem.  I don't believe the control panel and ribbon cable are usual failures, so likely would be "good".  Also, inspect the cable, and the alignment of the button and touch pad - could be just out of alignment, and/or crimped cable.

[MarkC_apc · Accepted solution]

Possible correction - the extended run time unit appears to (possibly) use the "RJ" type connector rather than a ribbon cable - still can check the button alignment as I've had ones that the circuit board was not placed properly in it's seat.

[Anonymous user]

Correct Mark, this model has a short phone type RJ style cable. I pulled the ups apart to get to the other end of the cable and check its connection. I made sure the button was working also on the pc board with a multimeter. But it still won't start by the front panel. Only the off button. So I will just have to put up with starting it when I need to over the network. At least it works. No great problem. Although I'm not a huge fan of the programming change to the fan running all of the time, I get that its good for the internal components, but..... Will have to try and find some updated quieter fans I think given theres 2 in this beast.

[BillP]

I have modded the fan in my SMT2200i with good results, it is now quieter than my HP microserver at 6% idle!

Fans were 24v so check that before buying. Also I used vibration damping fan mounts left over from my Noctua fans to isolate it from the case.

[Anonymous user]

Is that all you did, just the dampners or did you rereplace the fans with quietquieter fans as well? I was looking at some noctuas, ive got 2 ups's to do.

[BillP]

I wasn't aware Noctua did a 24v in 92mm format (if yours are the same as mine)

I swapped the fan and used noctua mounts but I can't remember the exact model of fan.

[Anonymous user]

TBH, I hadn't even checked if they were 12 or 24 or the size, I only just did a little search on quieter fans to see what was most popular.

[BillP]

Have a look on the fans sticker for a spec and we can take it from there m8.