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On 2/20/2016 5:19 AM, William said:Well, I'm just an end user who isn't in any way affiliated with either of APC or Schneider Electric, but ...
...I'd start out with a better battery as a test, though.
Yes, I'm in 230V, 50Hz land in Asia. I also have many APC UPSs:
Back-UPS Pro 1500 *2
Back-UPS Pro 900
Back-UPS 800
Back-UPS RS 500 - this faulty one.
I only just found the 800 in my pile of computer bits 
, so I may as well use that one for the job I was going to use the RS 500. But I would still like to get the 500 sorted out.
I did try the 500 with another battery - an old motor bike battery with a similar spec., but different physical size - and it gave the same result. So then I measured its unloaded output voltage and it, too, was about 3.9v. So I reckon both batteries are effectively dead.
Your video has given me an idea... 
I'll do the same and post it to Youtube so you can near what's happening.
I'll post a link later.
Later: Here's the link Back-UPS RS 500 Fault
After I made the video, I noticed the muck leaking out of the battery on the left side. Shows it is kaput, I guess. But does that explain the noise?
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On 2/19/2016 1:37 PM, Khun said:So, over to the knowledgeable guys at APC...
Well, I'm just an end user who isn't in any way affiliated with either of APC or Schneider Electric, but I have used a lot of APC products over the years and even repaired a few along the way. That said, I'm not sure how much help I can be, as it looks the Back-UPS RS 500 (BR500CI-RS?) is for those parts of the world using 230 volt, 50 Hz electrical systems.
The battery you've got right now is almost certainly a lost cause, and some models that aren't part of the Smart-UPS family do need a good battery to start up properly (or at all). I've never seen one fire its relays like crazy, but I have had one that whistled like a teakettle and dropped the attached load when the battery pooped out. A new battery brought it right back to life. So I'd beg, borrow, maybe even STEAL 
a slightly better battery and see what the unit does. It wouldn't have to be a great battery, just one that's got enough zip left to let the unit start up if that is what it needs in order to do so. If it comes around, a new battery is probably all you need.
In models similar to this (the Back-UPS CS series seems most similar to my eyes), faulty capacitors are known to cause strange behavior. If you know how to solder and can work on an electronic device utilizing high current and some line connected circuitry safely, it's a cheap and very easy fix. (Only to be done at your entire risk, however. APC doesn't consider their products as repairable by the end user.)
There is also the possibility of welded relays. These will usually trigger some nasty noises from the unit, and a light show or beeping fit from the control panel to indicate the fault. This model seems like it should have at least three relays -- one for primary power on/off control to its outlets, another to connect the inverter to the load, and a third for the AVR function.
With a faulty battery, the unit could also be attempting to cycle on to battery in response to what it sees as some kind of a power problem, only to fall flat on its face and start over again repeatedly. I don't know what charging methodology this unit uses, but there are some, particularly later models, that use a pulsed methodology and this might be audible if the regulation is being pulled down by a bad battery.
I'd start out with a better battery as a test, though.
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On 2/20/2016 5:19 AM, William said:Well, I'm just an end user who isn't in any way affiliated with either of APC or Schneider Electric, but ...
...I'd start out with a better battery as a test, though.
Yes, I'm in 230V, 50Hz land in Asia. I also have many APC UPSs:
Back-UPS Pro 1500 *2
Back-UPS Pro 900
Back-UPS 800
Back-UPS RS 500 - this faulty one.
I only just found the 800 in my pile of computer bits , so I may as well use that one for the job I was going to use the RS 500. But I would still like to get the 500 sorted out.
I did try the 500 with another battery - an old motor bike battery with a similar spec., but different physical size - and it gave the same result. So then I measured its unloaded output voltage and it, too, was about 3.9v. So I reckon both batteries are effectively dead.
Your video has given me an idea... I'll do the same and post it to Youtube so you can near what's happening.
I'll post a link later.
Later: Here's the link Back-UPS RS 500 Fault
After I made the video, I noticed the muck leaking out of the battery on the left side. Shows it is kaput, I guess. But does that explain the noise?
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