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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:35 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:35 AM
with the plug into the outlet, the smups 1500 does not begin to charge the batteries.
with the plug in the wall, and pressing the "1" button, charging current is supplied to the batteries. The unit appears to startup. Once the "1" button is let go, the unit turns off: No output power, No charging power to the batts. The self-test does not appear to happen. No beeps either.
If I hold down the "1" button ( with tape ) the smups will eventually reach 100%charge, at 27.7vDC.
With the "1" button held down, and do a self test ( via powerchute/serial port ), the unit will say test-passed ( as per powerchute ). BUT the unit will not go back on-line. I then have to unplug the unit. I also have to unplug the batteries.
I have tried a calibrate.Does not fix the units refusal to remain on ( the "1" button not continually held down ). Do u really need a 30%load for this to work?
I have tried changing the battery ID/value to A0,but that does not appear to help. Still refuses to remain on. Still refuses to charge the batts, while in the "0"/off but plugged into the outlet.
For the most part this unit appears to be working, except that the "1" must be continually depressed.
Any suggestions as to why it refuses to charge, and remain on?
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:34 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:34 AM
Have you tried a factory reset?
"z" after SM prompt brings the unit back to factory default.
While still in SM mode, ctrl-N (2 sec pause) then ctrl-N again should bring the unit to power and stay on.
If that doesn't work, it sound like a control failure and a transplant is the only feasible option. You can find a SUA1500 or a SU1400NET with a dead battery relatively cheaply if you look around online. Transplant your existing battery into it, if you're certain your batteries are in good conditions. Lead prices have gone up and so have battery prices, so don't waste a good battery pack.
If for asset control reasons you must have the same unit, main board transplant from an identical model donor unit should correct the problem. A unit with chassis damage but intact board is the ideal candidate for a donor unit. Carefully remove the buttons and control from the bezel, then swap out the main board. Once the swap is complete, reprogram the serial number in the new board's EEPROM to reflect your original chassis serial #. This ensure the serial # seen in PowerChute matches your chassis serial #.
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:35 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:35 AM
Otherwise toss it out ?
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:34 AM
Otherwise, if you are looking to get a new UPS, use the one that you have as a Trade-UPS to get a discounted price off of the new one, and free disposal of the old one.
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:34 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:34 AM
So that would be a yes - toss it out.
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:34 AM
Hi,
This is extremely abnormal operation of the UPS, and I wouldn't advise that you continue to use it in this manner. If it's covered under warranty, contact Tech Support and get a replacement.
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:34 AM
You would have to recycle the battery, but other than that, yes, the electronics portion of the UPS can be scrapped.
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:34 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-30 06:06 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-08 01:34 AM
Have you tried a factory reset?
"z" after SM prompt brings the unit back to factory default.
While still in SM mode, ctrl-N (2 sec pause) then ctrl-N again should bring the unit to power and stay on.
If that doesn't work, it sound like a control failure and a transplant is the only feasible option. You can find a SUA1500 or a SU1400NET with a dead battery relatively cheaply if you look around online. Transplant your existing battery into it, if you're certain your batteries are in good conditions. Lead prices have gone up and so have battery prices, so don't waste a good battery pack.
If for asset control reasons you must have the same unit, main board transplant from an identical model donor unit should correct the problem. A unit with chassis damage but intact board is the ideal candidate for a donor unit. Carefully remove the buttons and control from the bezel, then swap out the main board. Once the swap is complete, reprogram the serial number in the new board's EEPROM to reflect your original chassis serial #. This ensure the serial # seen in PowerChute matches your chassis serial #.
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