APC UPS for Home and Office Forum
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:15 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:15 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
I recently installed a new battery in my UPS, the old one would not last anymore, not even to hibernate the computer. But the new one is still showing 1 minute runtime. is there a way to reset the ups or calibrate it for the new battery?
I have a desktop computer connected pulling about 120 watts with the monitor, according to plugin watt meter.
Also what is the real model number for my ups? the sticker on the ups says " BN600G" in the Powerchute software it says "ES600G" so I was wondering what the real model number was.
And the last question, I saw in the help section of the Powerchute software that there are some option that don't appear in my software. Does my UPS not support them or what?
thanks Benjamin
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:16 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:16 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
Hello,
I used #10 gauge wire, same size as on the UPS, and its about 1 foot longer than the originals, also soldered everything. Yes I was measuring on the battery terminals.
The cooling is not a problem, during the hour and half run time, the case only got slightly warm, the same as with a original battery.
I understand the difference in the battery, but i have seen many other do the same and its working find. I know they are not made to be deep discharged like that, but wont be a problem for me, we do have quite a few power outages but are often short (5 to 10 min.) were the power company is probably switching between distribution lines. Except for yesterday when hurricane Otto went through, it was out for about 18 hours. I live in Costa Rica.
Benjamin
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:15 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:15 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
Yes. You could reset the UPS by performing a procedure known as a "braindead". Safely power down your attached load, disconnect the load, and then turn off the UPS. Unplug the UPS from the wall outlet and then disconnect the battery. Disconnect the communication cable. With all sources of power disconnected, push and hold down the power button for a few seconds. You might hear some clicks or a brief sound from the unit's beeper, and both are normal.
About a minute later, reinstall the battery, reconnect the UPS and the load you had plugged into it.
If this still does not work, perhaps the PowerChute software is maintaining an out of date value. I'm not sure what could be done about that, short of forcing the issue by manually pulling the plug. That is slightly risky. These compact UPS units are simple beasts and don't maintain battery health statistics like APC's higher end products do.
There's really not much difference between a BN600G and an ES600G. (There might be some subtle differences in what can be connected for surge protection purposes. Some retailers also get "special" model numbers, probably to get out of price matching what is an identical model in every way except the number printed on it.)
As your UPS is a more basic model, there are things it does not support. One of these is the automatic voltage regulation function found on APC's higher end models. This feature uses a special transformer to let the UPS adjust high or low voltage conditions without using up the battery. Your BN600G's only option in the face of an electrical problem is to switch over to its battery and run for as long as it can.
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:15 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:15 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
Okay I tried that, it added one minute to the run time.
A few more questions, what is the battery voltage fully charged connected to the UPS? and also at what voltage will the UPS shutdown when running on the battery?
Benjamin
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:15 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:15 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
Something must be maintaining a record of the runtime, though what it is I'm not sure. These simple units historically did not maintain a record of the battery's condition over time. (The usual cure for a Smart-UPS with this problem is a runtime calibration done with a purely resistive load running to at least 30% of the unit's capacity and remaining nearly constant during the entire process. You could try this; there is certainly nothing to lose other than a bit of time by doing so.)
When the battery is fully charged and at rest, the UPS should be holding it somewhere around 13.1-13.5 volts DC. (Fully charged and left to rest for a while, an SLA battery would have around 12.6 volts at its terminals.)
The low voltage cutoff on these units takes place around 10.5 volts DC. By that point the battery has truly given all it can. Their batteries take an enormous beating, especially in a heavily loaded UPS.
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:16 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:16 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
Okay I did a test run to see how long it would last. The battery was 100% and the voltage was 13.4 with a two minute run time. Unplugged it from the wall, the battery immediately went to 2% and run time 1 minute, voltage dropped to 12.8. I am running one computer with monitor, two routers and a wifi accespoint, pulling about 110 to 130 watts. the computer immediately wanted to hibernate, I canceled out just to see how long it would last. It lasted 1 hour and 30 minutes, by that time the voltage was down to 10.8 and started to drop faster, so I plugged it back in. I have a small car battery connect externally it has no listing of AH only a CCA of 390, but according to the run time it must be around 20 AH.
I think there is something wrong with my UPS because I noticed that the battery voltage and the battery percentage has no sync. if I disconnect the UPS for just a short time the percentage will go to 0 but the voltage will just drop .1 or .2 volts.
I think I will be updating to a pure sine wave Smart UPS in the near future.
Benjamin
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:16 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
On 25/11/2016 12:30 AM, Benjamin said:I have a small car battery connect externally it has no listing of AH only a CCA of 390, but according to the run time it must be around 20 AH.
I think there is something wrong with my UPS because I noticed that the battery voltage and the battery percentage has no sync. if I disconnect the UPS for just a short time the percentage will go to 0 but the voltage will just drop .1 or .2 volts.
A couple of things.
How big is the cable you have connecting that external battery? All UPSs are sensitive to voltage drop on the cabling, and they are all calibrated to work with the factory setup. More than a few 10s of millivolts difference and it'll do nasty things to the runtime calibration. Have you measured the voltage drop from the battery post to where the cable terminates on the PCB? That'd be enlightening. I'd hazard a guess you are measuring the voltage at the battery, but the UPS is measuring the voltage at the other end of the cabling. A 150W load on that unit will draw in the order of 12.5A from the battery and that is enough to create a significant voltage drop across an inadequate cable.
Secondly, that UPS has SFA internal cooling and is designed to last just as long as the original battery would last. By extending the runtime on those units you are very likely to cook stuff internally.
Thirdly, an FLA (Flooded Lead Acid) has considerably different characteristics to the SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) that would have come with that box originally. That is going to *completely* invalidate any calibration and runtime estimate the device might be able to provide. It's also not unlikely that you might eventually boil that battery as the required float voltages and temperature compensation are different also.
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:16 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
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Posted: 2021-06-28 05:16 AM . Last Modified: 2024-03-27 01:07 AM
Hello,
I used #10 gauge wire, same size as on the UPS, and its about 1 foot longer than the originals, also soldered everything. Yes I was measuring on the battery terminals.
The cooling is not a problem, during the hour and half run time, the case only got slightly warm, the same as with a original battery.
I understand the difference in the battery, but i have seen many other do the same and its working find. I know they are not made to be deep discharged like that, but wont be a problem for me, we do have quite a few power outages but are often short (5 to 10 min.) were the power company is probably switching between distribution lines. Except for yesterday when hurricane Otto went through, it was out for about 18 hours. I live in Costa Rica.
Benjamin
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