UTS10BI information needed

[Anonymous user]

I just ordered the UTS10BI about 2 weeks ago,and heard it was on backorder.I am employed at a business that sells Honda generators,and I spotted this unit in the brochure.The questions I have are,#1 I ordered the hardwire kit for this unit,and I also got the gen tran 14302 aluminum inlet box,rated for the 7500 generator I have,30 amp,and also will be using the gen tran RJB10425 25' cord.what is the recommended wire to run from the inlet box to hardwire kit?,and also what type of conduit?.I am probably looking to go about 8-10 foot run.and also would the 25' cord to generator be too long of a run?.My 2nd question is,Do I have to manually shut down my main breaker on my 200amp service to transfer over to generator,or does the UTS disconnect automatically,without having to do so?.my last question for now is,what keeps the UTS functioning when the power goes out,if you don't have a UPS,until the generator is up and running?Does the generator power up the lcd display for monitoring? I appreciate any explanation.I do do my own electrical work,and understand it,but not the full features of this unit.I also need something automatic for my family to use when I'm not home .thanks!!!

[Anonymous user]

Hey Beaners,
I'll throw in my 2 cents on what I have learned since owning the APC UTS6H and a Honda EU2000i. First, I really can't believe this transfer switch is not advertised more aggressively. This transfer switch blows the competition away in my opinion with the features it has. Back to your questions...

#1. 10/2 wire is rated for 30 amps and would be suited for your application of 8-10 feet. I don't see any appreciable voltage loss with only 8-10 feet of run. I used flexible conduit with the wire already inside. It was very easy to use and since I ran it along the basement rafters and plan on finishing the basement later, it met code for wire damage protection. 25 foot extension cord shouldn't be a problem as long as it is rated for the amperage. I purchased 15 feet instead since I wanted to make sure minimal drop in voltage and also I didn't need 25 feet, 15 was plenty to put the generator where I needed it.

#2. The transfer switch is wired just like any other transfer switch in that the circuit is separated by the two wire runs. There is no way the power can back feed the utility from the generator and visa versa. The circuit simply has two wires from two "separate" power sources. So when you have a power outage, you leave the main breaker alone and plug in the generator to provide power to your home. When utility power returns, simply turn off your generator. The APC recognizes where the power is coming from and switches accordingly unless you tell it not to. (i.e. tripped circuit breaker due to overload)

#3. I haven't tested this part because I have a ups hooked up, but the transfer switch needs two breakers on two separate phases of the AC panel to provide power to it. If you don't have a UPS hooked up, I believe it goes unpowered until utility power returns or you hook up a generator, then it powers the loads. With my UPS hooked up, it is always powered. UPS is a cheap option and makes this transfer switch really shine. I just purchased a 600 watt 1000BX on sale for under a hundred bucks and it provides "uninterruptible" power to two circuits I chose.(lighting and saltwater aquarium) This way when the power goes out, my lighting in the house and aquarium stay powered for 30 mins to allow me plenty of time to hook up my Honda and see where I am going. It is a must have in my opinion.

Congrats on your purchase! You will love this transfer switch. I have had mine now for a month and did a bunch of dry runs to check out the features and it is just plain cool! I had the whole house minus AC running(yes, even furnace) on a 120 volt transfer switch and 2000 watt honda generator. The APC allows you to delay circuits you choose and give them a priority so if you need a high draw item such as a microwave, it will shut down the refrigerator until the microwave is done and then power the fridge back up. It is a hands off transfer switch....plug the generator in and it will take care of the rest. I made a pretty small video of it on youtube, but the video is poor and I say the word "basically"and "obviously" a hundred times( I apologize)....but it gives you an idea of my setup. look under my name "thenaturalreef" hope that helps beaner


Nicholas

Message was edited by: upabove

Message was edited by: upabove

[Anonymous user]

Thanks for the information! much appreciated.On the uts10bi,do you mean that the 240 circuit 9 and 10 need to be hooked up for the system to operate?I looked at the install instructions online,and for the uts6 they noted that #5and #6 circuits needed to be hooked up for the unit to operate,is this true? If so I know that the internal fuses are rated at 20amp,I do have electric baseboard heat.everything else in my home is electric,stove,water heater.what would be a good suggestion for that circuit,if it's needed for that uts to operate?because I was unaware of it's purpose,and was going to leave it disconnected for the time being,until I had a purpose for it.thanks!

[Anonymous user]

No problem! Yes, I believe on the 10 circuit model you need 9 and 10 which need to be on opposite phases to power the transfer switch. I would go around the house and look at what items you "need" to sustain your family during a power outage. i.e heat during winter and hot water, lighting and tv for emergency broadcast etc. look at the appliance sticker usually located inside of door or back of appliance for amperage draw. Them simply multiply the amps by 120 to get wattage. Add up the wattage and see if your generator will handle the load of the highest draw item since the APC will load shed the other items until the high draw item is off. My highest draw items are my microwave(1100 watts) and furnace( 900 startup and 700 continuous) When these items are running, I set my APC to load shed the Refrigerator circuit until they are done being used and then the APC starts up the fridge. Find out which 240 circuit will run with the generator not being overloaded and choose that one. It might be the baseboard heat because I'm thinking the electric hot water heater will pull a hella lotta amps. Let me know here what circuits you chose and how you plan on running it and I'll give you my input on how I ran mine if that helps you.

Message was edited by: upabove

[Anonymous user · Accepted solution]

As of right now and until I figure out what I can really use that circuit for,I am just going to pop in a double 15 to my main panel,just so I can power up the uts,so it will function and I'll leave the load side dead for now.Majority of the appliances in my house are electric,and are rated higher for what I really need it for.I do have backup heating sources,and camp stove if needed.I had to pull the stove out when hurricane Irene came,and good thing I had it.I figure as long I can keep the fridge and chest freezer going I will be ok.as of right now I am still waiting for the unit to arrive.hopefully any day now.Thanks Again !!